Photo Blog: Croatia + The Balkans

I’m still pinching myself in disbelief that such an amazing week is humanly possible. The Balkans remain at the top of my list of places to travel. I’m torn between shouting from the rooftops that you must run as fast as you can to the breathtaking Dalmatian coastline and keeping it close to the chest as my own little hidden gem that remains mostly unspoiled. Although it seems reckless, it feels selfish not to share, so here it goes…

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Split, Croatia

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We started and ended our journey in Split, Croatia—a beautiful waterfront town that has a rich history, dating back to Roman rule in the 4th century AD. The impressive structure, Diocletian’s Palace, remains as a nod to it’s former glory.

Most of us were completely wiped out from our journey, but we did manage to sneak in a delicious wine tasting before dinner. We also sampled the locally-brewed Rakia, which one traveler jokingly noted resembled Mountain Dew—the taste, however, is quite different.

We ended the night on the rooftop bar of our hotel which has arguably one of the most beautiful views of the city skyline.

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Mostar, Bosnia + Herzegovina

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From there we traveled by bus to Mostar, in Bosnia and Herzegovina. We were instantly taken by the remnants that stand as an ever-present reminder that the Yugoslav Wars were quite recent—bullet holes lining walls and buildings and shells of building frames stand as a looming ghost of it’s bleak past.

The local shop keepers and vendors however, are bustling with the recent tourism boom after covid. The town is a time capsule— a juxtaposition between past, present and future.

We had a lovely, but honest walking tour with our host, Sheva, who shared Mostar’s complex history with us. His personal experience during the war was moving and candid and gave us tremendous insight into the realities of war on innocent children—fishing with grenades, rigging makeshift bicycles to get electricity, and complicated blurred lines between family, friend and enemy. He was a shining example of the resilience, forgiveness and hope that the human spirit is capable of.

As a local diver himself, Sheva was able to give us insight into Mostar’s famous sport—diving from Stari Most and even arranged for us to meet one of the young diving recruits. The sport has gotten so famous that Red bull sponsors a a diving competition from Stari Most each year.

We ended our time with a Turkish coffee experience—learning all about the growing, harvesting, and brewing process. Even the non-coffee drinkers in the group were faced with a challenge to their coffee biases.

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Ston, Croatia

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From Mostar, we returned to Croatia by way of Ston—a local salt-producing village surrounded by immense stone walls known for it’s unrivaled oysters. The sea is saltier in this region than most places and it produces some of the best Oysters in the entire world!

We also visited a family-run winery with our guide, Tonka, and learned about the different ways the local grapes can be harvested to produce countless different types of wine. We again encountered some locally-brewed Rakia and everyone left warmer and happier than they arrived.

On the ride to Dubrovnik, Tonka entertained us with stories from her days as an extra in the HBO hit series Game of Thrones. Needless to say, we were all very impressed to know village woman #20!

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Dubrovnik, Croatia

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In Dubrovnik we completely lost ourselves in the luxury of our hotel—most travelers even opted to skip dinner just to sit by the sea and watch the impressive sunset.

The next day, our local guide Tom took us through Dubrovnik and gave us both a fascinating history lesson and a private peek into some of the secret filming locations in Game of Thrones. Even those unfamiliar with the show were ready to go home and binge watch it after our afternoon with him. Together, we climbed the fortress and took in one of the most beautiful views Dubrovnik has to offer.

That evening we had dinner by the sea and watched as the most impressive moon rose over the Adriatic. It’s a night none of us will never forget.

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Kotor, Montenegro

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From Dubrovnik, we drove to Perast, Montenegro and hopped a boat to the man-made monastery Our Lady of the Rocks. Legend has it that local fishermen collected stones and slowly built the island over time. The locals still have a tradition of bringing a stone once a year to continue their work of expanding the island.

Our boat driver took us from the monastery straight to the dock at our hotel, and many of us felt like James Bond as we rode through the waves.

We headed into Kotor’s Old Town that afternoon for some shopping, cat museums, hiking, and so much gelato, before returning back to our beautiful hotel to swim, risk our lives paddle boarding (special thanks to Speedo Steve for saving one of us from getting tangled up in a rope) and taking in the breathtaking scenery.

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Lokrum Island, Croatia

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The next day brought us back to Dubrovnik for an afternoon exploring the island of Lokrum. We ate, pet peacocks, jumped off of cliffs, and sat on the Iron Throne. It was an amazing way to spend the afternoon before heading to the highlight of the trip—dinner with Marija and Zlatko!

Our local Croatian hosts were kind enough to have us over for the most amazing dinner of our lives. Zlatko and Marija cooked a literal feast of peka for us in the traditional way—slowly cooking over hot coals in an iron bell. We tasted Zlatkos home-brewed rakia, and ate proscuitto straight from the source!

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Split, Croatia

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The next day had us heading back to Split to say farewell to Croatia, but first many of us chose to stop at the kitschy, Froggyland museum—the lifeswork of an eccentric early 20th century taxidermy artist and easily the best $10 I’ve ever spent!

We ended our tour with an amazing dinner and found ourselves again at the rooftop bar for a final cheers and a quick laugh at some funny things that had been said along the way. All in all the trip was a dream—the destination, the hospitality, and the friendships we made were hard to beat!

Tips and Tricks for Germany + The Alps

If you’ve always dreamed of heading to Germany, Austria + The Czech Republic, you’re not alone! These Alpine regions are not only breathtakingly beautiful, they are home to some of the warmest people imaginable. The people, the landscape, the art, the food… the BEER…are second to none. It’s no wonder Maria Von Trapp said, “The Hills are Alive with the Sound of Music!”

If you find yourself feeling completely overwhelmed with all of the cultural nuances and ways to prepare, we are here to help!

So without further ado.. Here are my tips and tricks for navigating Germany, Austria and the Czech Republic like a pro!

CULTURAL COURTESY

Be aware that the places we are visiting have a culture and history all their own. Use common courtesy when approaching sensitive subjects with locals. Feel free to approach guides with any questions you may have, but be aware that certain subjects might be touchy to those not in an education role. I’ve found there is a particular sensitivity when talking about the Nazi Regime in Germany. The history is too close, and the Germans aren’t quite removed enough from it to discuss it without attachment. Think of it sort of like racism in America--It’s understandable given that many Germans involved in the Nazi Party were there against their will. A guide once told me that many Germans even feel that expressing German national pride is still so tainted with the shadow of Naziism, that expressing it often comes with condemnation and ridicule. Just be aware that certain questions, much like religion and politics in the US, are best left to the guides and proceed with caution.

WEATHER

The weather can be anywhere from the low 40s in the evenings to the low 60s in the heat of the day, so pack accordingly. Layers are your best friend. Bring scarves, gloves and a warm hat for when the temperatures are cooler or for anytime you are high in the mountains. There can be as much as a 15-20 temperature difference at the top of the Alps as compared to the bottom so come prepared. A pop-up shower can also be very likely in this region, so make sure you have rain gear close by at all times. It goes without saying that you will spend a lot of time on your feet as you explore this fun terrain, so pack comfortable walking shoes.  

PICKPOCKETS

Unlike America, pickpockets run rampant in most of Europe. Again, you are unlikely to find yourself in any physical harm, but understand, your pockets WILL be picked if you aren’t on high alert. High traffic areas like the bus and the metro are a feeding frenzy for “little fingers.” Also keep your eyes peeled at large tourist sites. Where the tourists flock, so do the pick pockets. A good under-your-shirt money belt will definitely help lower your chances of becoming an easy target. Another interesting note: keep your cell-phone close. Leaving it on the edge of a table while eating or next to you on the metro is inviting theft. I once saw a poor sap get his phone snatched off a table in a restaurant while the waiter was explaining the specials. You can never be too careful. If you care about an item, don’t advertise it. Keep any valuables out of sight and secured if you want to hang on to them.

ELECTRICITY

If you plan to charge your phone, dry your hair, or use small appliances on your trip, you’ll need to be aware that Europe has a few major electrical differences with America. For example, the outlet plug shape varies from our standard two prong outlet. Though there are a variety of outlet types acceptable in all three of these regions, but as they all share the F type (with two small round prongs), You can find images and details on this outlet type here.  You can pick up a small pack of outlet converters rather inexpensively at Target or Amazon like these here. Another crucial thing to bear in mind is voltage. In America, we use 120 V of power in our outlets. In Europe, the standard is 220V and can even go up to 230V in some areas. Small items like cell phone chargers are okay with just a wall adapter that changes the shape of your outlet plug, but if you plan to use bigger items like blow dryers and straighteners, you’re going to want to equip yourself differently.  Purchasing a wattage converter before you leave will allow you to use your home appliances without overpowering them with European voltage and spares them from a sad burned out death. You can pick one up on Amazon like this one here.  

MONEY

We already mentioned that keeping a money belt below your clothing is a good idea, but that is just one aspect of being money conscious in Europe.

Be advised that while the Czech Republic is part of the European Union, please note that they do not operate on the Euro as most of the rest of the EU does. US dollars and Euros can sometimes be accepted, but you will definitely be wise to convert some Koruna before departure. Germany and Austria, however, are on the Euro. I also suggest changing foreign currency at your home bank a few weeks before you depart. Take anywhere from $60-150 with you in local currency. Once you are in the Czech Republic or Austria (our first two destinations), you can easily access ATMs for any additional cash you might need. Be aware, both your bank and local ATMs will charge you an exchange fee, so you will want to budget what you need and keep your ATM transactions to a minimum to avoid those unnecessary fees. The worst place to convert money is the airport, so plan on exchanging money before you leave, or at an ATM once while in Europe.

While credit cards are widely accepted in most of western Europe, some places in Prague and smaller towns like Rothenburg, in Germany can be more cash-based, so plan accordingly by hitting up an ATM or converting Euros or Koruna’s before your trip. For places that do accept credit cards, be aware that if you are using your normal credit card from home, please be advised that there can be fees for every swipe that can add up quick if you aren’t careful. Not only does your bank charge a fee, you will face foreign transaction fees per swipe as well. If you’re dead set on using plastic for the majority of your purchases, it would be a good idea to invest in a card that has zero foreign transaction fees. My go to cards for international travel are the Capital One Venture Card, and the Chase Business Ink. Make sure that you also report international travel dates to your bank before you leave to avoid having your card frozen while abroad.

TIPPING

If you have a tour guide during any part of your trip, just know that it is customary to tip 1-2 euros after any guided tours. Similarly, you’ll want to tip any bus drivers (particularly ones who handle your luggage) for their services. We usually suggest $3 per driver per day of service. If you have a helpful waiter, they will certainly appreciate a few euros for good service as well. Tipping is not as large of a practice in Western Europe as it is in America. The main reason for this is that waiters in Europe are not reliant on tips as their sole source of income the way American waiters are. Many restaurants include gratuity standard on your bill. If this is the case, there is no expectation for an additional tip. If gratuity has not been included, a few euros extra will suffice. A good tip is always appreciated for exceptional service.

Be advised, for tour guides, your tour fee includes a small tip for each guide, but if you feel someone has done an exceptional job, either on a tour, or for any other service, it is customary to contribute a bit more on the spot.

Restrooms are not always free in Europe. You may encounter a small fee to either use the restroom or to tip the attendant who keeps it clean—sometimes you must even purchase a ticket to use the restroom. It’s a good idea to hang on to your loose change for this reason.  

PHONE USAGE

If you plan to use your phone abroad, make sure you call your phone carrier prior to leaving. The major ones like Sprint, ATT and Verizon have very reasonable international plans, however, you must add them before you leave to avoid paying exorbitant roaming fees. ATT, for example lets you use your phone as normal for $10 per day. If you don’t plan to stay connected, you can connect to Wi-Fi in the hotels. Just be aware the Wi-Fi can be spotty and often slower than at home, but hey, you’re in Europe. Enjoy the scenery and get your nose out of your phone 😊

Obviously, there is so much more to traveling in this region than can be explored in this blog, but hopefully this will at least give you a leg up and keep you from looking like a total noob while visiting the Germany + the Alps. If you are looking for fun things to do while in Germany, Austria, and the Czech Republic, feel free to take a look at our itinerary. These are only just some of the highlights, but it will give you an idea of how much time to allot at each location and how to pace yourself.

Happy travels!